Jun
20
2010
0

How Your Check Engine Light Works

Have you ever had an experience like this? You drive through the one of those automatic car washes. When you get to the end, where the dryer is blowing, your check engine light started flashing!

You fear the worst, but within a block or two, the light stopped flashing, but stayed on. By the next day, the light was off.

You wonder; “What was going on?” Well, it’s actually a good lesson in how the Check Engine light works.

Your air intake system has a sensor that measures how much air is coming through it. When you went under the high-speed dryer, all that air was blasting past the sensor. Your engine computer was saying, there shouldn’t be that much air when the engine is just idling. Something’s wrong. Whatever’s wrong could cause some serious engine damage.

Warning, warning! It flashes the check engine light, to alert you to take immediate action.

It stopped flashing because once you were out from under the dryer, the airflow returned to normal. Now the engine control computer says the danger is past, but I’m still concerned, I’ll keep this light on for now.

Then the Check Engine Light goes off in a day or two.

The condition never did recur, so the computer says whatever it was, it’s gone now. The danger is past, I’ll turn that light off.

Now a flashing check engine light is serious. You need to get it into your shop as soon as possible. But if it stops flashing, so you have time to see if the problem will clear itself or if you need to get it checked. How does the computer know when to clear itself?

Think of it this way. The engine control computer is the brain that can make adjustments to manage the engine. Things like alter the air to fuel mix, spark advance, and so on. The computer relies on a series of sensors to get the information it needs to make decisions on what to do.

The computer knows what readings are in a normal range for various conditions. Get out of range, and it logs a trouble code and lights up the check engine warning.

The computer will then try to make adjustments if it can. If the computer can’t compensate for the problem, the check engine light stays on.

The computer logs a trouble code. Some people think the code will tell the technician exactly what’s wrong?

Actually, the code will tell the technician what sensor reading is out of parameters. It can’t really tell you why, because there could be any number of causes.

Let’s say you’re feeling hot. You get your heat sensor out – a thermometer – put it under our tongue and in a minute or two you learn that you have a fever of 104 degrees.

You know your symptom – a fever – but you don’t know what’s causing it. Is it the flu, a sinus infection or appendicitis?

You need more information than just that one sensor reading. But it does give you a place to start and narrows down the possible problems.

There are reports on the internet telling you that you can just go down to an auto parts store and get them to read your trouble code or buy a cheap scan tool to do it yourself.

There are two problems with that. First, the computer stores some trouble codes in short term memory, and some in permanent memory. Each manufacturer’s computer stores generic trouble codes, but they also store codes that are specific to their brand.

A cheap, generic scan tool, like ones you can buy, doesn’t have the ability to retrieve long-term storage or manufacturer specific codes. Your service center has spent a lot of money on high-end scan tools and software to do a deep retrieval of information from your engine control computer.

The second problem is that once you’ve got the information, do you know what to do with it? For example, a very common trouble code comes up when the reading on the oxygen sensor is out of whack.

So the common solution is to buy a new oxygen sensor, which are not cheap, and off  you go. Now your oxygen sensor may indeed have been bad and needed replacing. But the error code could have come from any of a dozen of other problems.

How do you know the right solution? Back to the fever analogy, do you need surgery or an aspirin? Leave it to the pros!

Feb
25
2009
0

My Check Engine Light Is On, Now What?

check-engine-lightMy check engine light is on, now what?

If I had a dollar for everytime I heard someone ask me, “What causes my check engine light to go on?” I would be living on a beach in Hawaii by now. Check engine light problems are becoming a common occurance. The main reason for this occurance is because todays vehicles are computer controlled and monitored by numerous sensors; which work hard keep the vehicle fuel efficient and safe. 

So what does it mean if your check engine light is on?

Well it could be something as simple as a gas cap being loose or something more difficult to diagnose like a loose or shorted wire. Either way if your check engine light is on, it is a good idea to take the vechicle to an automotive repair facility that has the equipment to properly diagnose the problem.

What if the vehicle is running just fine?

It still may be worthwhile to have the problem properly diagnosed. I have seen many vehicles that appear to run just fine, however they become less fuel efficient. Eventually, the cost of fuel could out-weigh the cost of the repair. Also, cities that have emmisions standards may require you to have the vehicle repair at your next inspection.

Doesn’t Autozone scan the vehicle for free?

Yes they do. However, all they will give is a trouble code. These trouble codes can state something like “O2 Sensor Lean” or “Bank 1 Sensor 2 Rich” which means that one of the oxygen sensors is reading rich or lean. This doesn’t mean that the oxygen sensor is necessarily bad. It could mean that the vehicle really is running rich or lean. This could be due to the failure of another sensor, switch, or other mechanical problem. I have seen many do-it-yourselfers without proper diagnostic equipment replace part after part after part and still not fix their problem. Your  best bet is to take your vehicle to a reputable shop and let them diagnose the problem. You will probably have to pay for diagnostic time, which can range from a 1/2 hour on up to 4 hours, depending on how difficult the problem is to locate. In most cases after the part has been replaced the trouble code must be cleared with the use of a proper scan tool anyways, so it’s not worth wasting the time and money by being a parts changer.

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